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Tilers & Trade Shop have a range of C1 & C2 Adhesives in stock for these types of tiles.
Graniti Fiandre’s proprietary technology has made it possible to create stunning slabs in an astonishing size associated with a minimum 6mm thickness that are also environmentally friendly.
MAXIMUM is the revolutionary, award winning, large format porcelain stoneware from Graniti Fiandre, Italy.
Tilers & Trade Shop have a range of C1 & C2 Adhesives in stock for these types of tiles.
Offering architects and designers unprecedented design flexibility, MAXIMUM porcelain panels are made entirely from natural materials such as sand, quartz, clay, feldspar and recycled content and contain no toxic resins or chemical binders that are used in reconstituted stone products.
From beautiful finishes inspired by nature, to the cool contemporary look of concrete, MAXIMUM is an environmentally friendly, 100% natural, partially recycled product available in a wide range of colours suitable for residential and commercial projects.
Thanks to its lightweight, easy installation (cutting, drilling, grouting, etc) and maintenance, MAXIMUM is particularly suited for all exterior facade cladding, including ventilated systems and interior applications for covering walls and floors in multi residential, retail and commercial areas, including all refurbishment projects.
Size, thickness, quality, safety and aesthetics are the outstanding features that make MAXIMUM a highly versatile material.
If you have a perfectly serviceable bathroom, but your bath is sorely in need of an upgrade you could swop this out for a new one. You may also want to update to a stylish freestanding model or spa bath, which are all the rage. In terms of the practicalities, replacing a bath typically will involve the services of a number of trades, including a plumber, waterproofer, and/or tiler - unless you are going to use a dedicated bathroom renovator.
But how much is this going to cost? Before we get into the nitty gritty of the cost of this project, what type of bath are you going to go for?
Types of Baths
Besides the option of freestanding or built-in style bathtub, there are a number of materials used in the manufacture of modern baths - all at different price points and with their own pros and cons. These include:
- Acrylic - an affordable, durable & versatile material
- Cast iron - mid price, and when enamelled this material is a durable classic
- Fibreglass - flexible and affordable but can scratch
- Metal - designer option and costly
- Polymer - versatile composite of materials, mid price
- Steel - lighter than cast iron, mid price
- Stone - high-end option, durable and stylish
Using a licensed tradie for your project
It is imperative you utilise licensed trades if you are renovating your bathroom. All aspects are critical to the structural integrity of this space, particularly the waterproofing which is also a legal requirement.
Hiring the right tradie for your bath installation
When it comes time to hiring a tradie, make sure they are right for your job. Some questions to ask them include:
- Are you licensed?
- Are you insured to work in my home?
- How long will my job take?
- Can you provide a written quote?
- Do you have references I can follow up?
- Can I see examples of your work?
#hiptip: Always ask if your tradie is licensed for the job they are quoting for!
How much does bath installation cost?
To start out with let’s get your bath project costs listed, starting with your bath. New baths can range from as little as $400 to thousands of dollars, with stone freestanding versions at the upper end of the scale.
For an idea of current prices, expect to pay:
- $277 for a fibreglass reinforced acrylic Posh Solus MKII rectangle bath (1675)
- $1297 for an enamelled steel Kaldewei Puro inset bath (1600)
- $1699 for an acrylic Caroma Pearl freestanding bath (1750)
- $2138 for an acrylic Kado Classic dragon feet freestanding bath (1700)
- $2999 for a Vizzini Alberta stone freestanding bath (1600)
#hiptip: Get at least three quotes before you commit to hiring anyone, so you can compare price and level of service!
Once you have chosen a bathtub you need to find a service to carry out the job for you. Initially you need to decide if you are going to use a dedicated bathroom renovation service. The advantage of this is that they have all the relevant trades to hand and will take care of everything. The alternative is for you to source all the individual licensed trades your job requires. These may include a:
Plumber: a plumber will be able to remove and install a bath, including altering or modifying any necessary fixtures and/or drainage. Plumbers charge in the region of $100/hour, depending on where you live and there may also be a one-off call out charge.
Always use tradies who are licensed for your bathroom reno!
#hiptip: Always use a licensed plumber to carry out any work on your plumbing system!
Waterproofer: even though your bathroom was initially waterproofed, ripping out an old bath and altering fixtures is likely to require fresh waterproofing. There are regulations governing the extent of waterproofing in bathrooms. A professional waterproofer will ensure your job is done to spec. Some states require a waterproofer to be licensed and/or issue a statement/certificate of compliance. Expect waterproofing to cost anywhere from $35 to $70 per square metre, depending on the materials utilised.
Tiler: your new bath is unlikely to be a like-for-like replacement so you will need a tiler to make the area like new. Expect to pay in the region of $60 per square metre for bathroom tiling - with the type of tile and the scale of the job the determining factors.
Need visual inspiration? Why not browse our Bath Designs Ideas pages and choose which one would suit your space and lifestyle.
G’day Guys and Girls,
I wish to touch on a subject, which I have been hearing about for 50 years (or so) Shitty Grout causing discoloration in finished grout lines. Over the years I have dealt with the majority of adhesive manufactures in Australia. Some I refuse to deal with, due to their lack of Quality, Commitment and service. Every few days my Staff and I receive a complaint from a client about patchy grout. The tiler becomes disheartened at the response from the company rep and refuses to buy their range of products ever again (Adhesive included). I have heard complaints about every manufacturer in Australia. COME ON NOW they can’t be all shit! No I’m not going against my own kind, I feel us tradies are victims of other forces at play, only a small percentage of the problem may be due to bad practice.
When you whackemon (new word) the floor, the good book says, part of the process is to clean the excess adhesive out of the grout lines, IF the tiles are properly bedded. Part of the laying process is to remove this excess adhesive, preferably whilst it is still soft. Shit hey, saw my legs off and call me shorty! The Old German I did my trade with, made sure that the neats on top of the bed came up the sides of the stone or tiles. However, it is not unusual for this not to happen, and then the next day, the grout is placed into the gaps and finished. Except on Sandstone/Freestone where we would grout then grind the entire surface flat. Another effect which occurs, is that because the adhesives are supposed to be applied with a notch trowel and the notch lines are rarely completely squashed down to make a continuous layer, this causes a line of glue next to a void under the tile. Larger notch trowels increase this situation. As the grout dries at varying thicknesses in the grout lines, the chemical reactions for cement occur differently, in part because the way the water stays in the grout (Thick & Thin) to react the cement, but also due to the differing properties of the adhesive (Thick & Thin) Where the grout is thinner it dries lighter, and where thicker dries darker. This pattern is then reflected in the grout and you end up with a “Patchy Look” in the grout lines. Easy to see with darker grouts.
Some dickhead in manufacture spilled the glaze over the tile edge. This can result in variations in colour due to differences in moisture absorption by the tile. This can be limited by wetting the grout lines with a fine water spray prior to grouting. P.S. This process slows down the time it takes to get to the watering hole with your mates! Laying and moisture issues. The grout application can have a bearing on the final colour due to both practice and site conditions. The grout is designed to be mixed with a certain ratio of water to form a soft paste of butter consistency that holds its shape. Where the installer has added too much water, this can alter the colour due to both alterations in the cement properties and also separation of the colouring oxides from the mix (that’s the scum look on the top in the bucket). And the excess water takes longer to dissipate from the grout leading to apparent darkness, and also blotchy in appearance. There is no simple remedy to this problem other than re-installation. If the grouts are badly mixed, then the colours can be variable because the colourants are not properly dispersed through the grout, this in my mind only applies to the old days when we mixed our own grouts (1 vegemite jar + 2 cups + 1 pint, f---- this I’m off to the pub). This day and age of company mixed grout is almost flawless. Ensure grouts are thoroughly mixed before application, and mixing should be sufficient to ensure water is absorbed. The grout powder is added to water and mixed to achieve a consistent paste, let stand for 3 minutes (what another cige!), restirred and then applied. Always use a clean bucket, and drinkable water.
Bloody Efflorescence (which means "to flower out" in French) is the loss of water (or a solvent) of crystallization from a hydrated or solvated salt to the atmosphere on exposure to air. This is a physical condition that occurs where water soluble salts rise to the surface and then when the water evaporates the salts deposit out as a powdery or crystalline crust. There are two types of efflorescence:
Grout efflorescence is typically whitish in colour and results from soluble calcium salts being deposited. (Talk to Ben this is his baby). It can be blotchy or produce an overall light colouration. Primary efflorescence occurs immediately and secondary occurs at a later date. Dark coloured grouts are more likely to show efflorescence due to colour contrast and all cement based materials can show efflorescence. Efflorescence occurs due to several conditions and is made worse by cool temperatures and overall dampness, therefore winter and coastal or very humid environments are more likely to show efflorescence. Where the tile installer has used excess water in both mixing the grout and also clean up, soluble salts can be leached from the grout cement (this also applies to the tile adhesive) and then deposits on the grout surface as drying occurs. Cool temperatures at the time of installation both prolong cement curing and also retards water evaporation. This can increase the likelihood of efflorescence. Where there is ground water, rising damp or damp slab, soluble salts can move with the ground water, or be leached from the slab, tile adhesive or grout and deposit on the grout, since this is the most porous area for evaporation to occur. Efflorescence may also appear on porous tile (good old quarry tiles) surfaces and brickwork. Ground water and rising damp are beyond the scope of this bulletin, but should be addressed as they lead to other more serious problems. Rain water running down tiled facades between the masonry walls and the tiled surface can generate significant efflorescence on the grout lines. Run off can also create efflorescence on the edges, but also within the field of decks. The tile grout has been applied too soon after the tile adhesive which has not fully dried. The moisture from the tile adhesive then leaches through the grout carrying soluble salts which deposit at the surface. The slab or screed was not dry, or insufficiently cured and then moisture travels up through the grout. I can’t stress how important this is, stick to the correct water mixing ratios during installation. Slabs typically take 28 days to cure, (useless information, the concrete bed for a sugar mill, mill train takes about 100 years) though drying is typically 25mm per month of slab thickness. Screeds take around 7 days to cure, and dry around 1mm per day. Check that rising damp is not present (the old rubber car mat trick). Try to work at temperatures above 10C and have adequate ventilation to promote water evaporation. Allow adequate curing times for the tile adhesive so SO important during the cold months. Once again talk to Ben he knows about efflorescence!
Cheers, Old mason’s ramblings, sorry.
The Australian Master Tilers Association Ltd. is a national specialist association for tiling and waterproofing professionals, suppliers, retailers and manufacturers, providing members with timely and up to date information, Continuing Professional Development, and networking opportunities.